DISCLAIMER
This guide is supplied on the understanding that you most keep your gun below the 12ftlbs power limit. I will not be held responsible for any prosecution or injury due to the use of this guide.
This guide WILL knock the gun over the limit, mines doing 800fps.which turns out to by approx 545mph!
I urge you to read the full guide and study all pics before attempting any mod or strip down.
800fps won't cost you a penny, well apart from the cost of this guide. This is done simply because I've stripped mine and inspected every bit. I like to know what does what, when and why, and can it be improved on. I urge you to do the same...
The goal of this manual is to save you money while showing you how the gun works,its not as complicated as you may think.
Regardless what model you have I advise you READ ALL OF THE GUIDE
This manual now covers the mk1,mk2 and ‘s’ model , not just the one for your model.
The first proto type I think, note the cocking leaver or lack of, because it was pump action...
The mk1
Ive read online that before production the government contacted the designer who will remain nameless. if he can’t be bother to reply to my emails or messages then he can go do one. the powers that be insisted that he change the loading away from pump action. While it was said that they couldn’t stop him they would make it hard for him to sell them ..so the design was changed.
Others say that a ‘’pump action’’ would change the classification of the gun to a ‘section 1 fire arm’….so what about the 96 shot, pump action skan a few years before??...its a gray area and im making mine pump action bugger the consiquenses…
Ive read that some of the early loguns were built in sweden,mine was I hope.later ones were built in bosnia/poland, which is quite possible as
the quality between the mk1 and 2 are miles apart,tolerances were just not the same…
Mk2
S16-
And lets not forget this beast the FAC export model..
S16-XS
Dual powered,yup its takes co2…1200 plus shots per charge!! Which is blooby handy if your also a paintballer...more on this later
Model differences.
S16s has No tramsferport adjuster
No hammer adjuster
No barrel oring seal on main barrel clamp
No hammer guide
No barrel retaining grub screws
better shaped bottle valve
New designed gauge and cover
20mm longer forarm
Nice curved bolt lock
Logun on gun just painted not embossed like mk1
1.5mm transfer port
Heavy exhaust spring
Valve set to open max 3mm by pin on hammer face.
Barrel not threaded for scilenser so can't upgrade
New brass oring bush above bottle valve between block and tube
Things u need for a basic strip and tune,
the mk2 and ‘s’ will be needing a few extra bits,ill mention them later.
A set of GOOD quality alan keys
Pointy nosed pliers
5mm round wood dowel to push out internals
Egg carton, handy for placing in screws and bolts
Rubber car mat for working on
Silicon grease
Molly grease
3 in 1 oil, or even engine oil
And for later, external power mod
Bottle size o-ring
Cable tie
Small file
A word first about compressed air and the dangers.
If the bottle exsplodes it WILL take your head clean off..respect it or pay the consequences…read on.
A few years back I bought a skan bullpup 96 shot,it cost me a good months wages,bout £660,a diving bottle was going to add another £140,bugger that I thought ide get one on the cheep,ie for nowt..
so I sourced a new tested 232bar bottle,a brewery bottle.took it to a mate who fitted new adapters to charge it and away i went an me dads rover metro to get it charged...
1000psi,no probs...2000psi,yes ha,ill get out with me gun I thought...3000psi and the valve blew.
the bottle instantly spun and dug in to the concrete shop floor, then it decided to fly round the shop just creating carnage. it stopped after about 20 seconds ,I gave the trembling assistant me £3 for the air,picked up the frozen bottle and legged it quick time..
needless to say i forked out for a proper bottle...at the time i didnt know the brewery bottle had a co2 valve with a burst disk on the side....bloody do now though
I don't pretend to be a know all, but I can make things better. Now the logun is a very nice, if a little heavy gun. but I can and have made it better. There are a couple of so called strip down guides on the net. They only show the very basics of the gun. Don’t get me wrong the spacing of the hammer spring is a good idea but on close inspection of the internals no amount of washers will get it up to 800fps like this guide will. This is done with no cost to the shooter just simply adjusting and removing a slyly positioned grub screw or two in the mk1 or drilling out the ports on the mk2 and ‘s’ mpodels…..
Upping the power also means you can lower it by fitting a weaker hammer spring making it easy as pie to cock the gun as some find it quite hard..…reading this guide means you agree to lower the guns power to the legal limit…im not telling you to brake any laws,im just tellinh you how it can be done....telling and doing are totally different,if I tell you your car will do 130mph and your cought speeding its not my fault...
THE GUN MINUS THE MAIN TUBE SHOWING POSITIONS OF MAIN O-RINGS
QUICK STRIP,all models…mk2 is almost identical internally apart from a 1.5mm transfer port which needs drilled, please read all the manual first
IMPORTANT,ALL MODELS.
Mk1 and mk2 have 2 tiny grub screws under the main tube accessible from under the forearm. They hold the barrel in at the front of the main tube.
These little grub scrubs will save you some major problems by placing them in a certain place BEFORE removing the internals.
after the barrel is removed take the alan grub screws cos there going to save you replacing a oring.
after the scope rail is removed loosen and remove the 2 upper alen bolts from the main tube,the ones at the front.
replace the bolts with the 2 grub screws and give them a nice nip...why?...i afraid its down to the makers not doing there jobs properly.
you see when refitting the internals,the very front section of the valve block which is drilled and tapped 4 times,the front part goes back slightly
which pushes the 4 rough cut inner threaded parts over the oring which slices it.tightening in the grub screws stops this.
The ‘s’ doesn’t have the grubs so youll have to get some.
Fitting grubs before reasembly,the centre must be flush,if it goes to far then the threaded holes will cut the oring beneath and it will leak a teabag.
i dont know what it is but the mk2 is finneshed of worse than the mk1!,everything is tight to push out,valve bolts are tight to the last turn,even the exteranl finnish is crap...the logun on my mk1 is nicely embossed and painted while the mk2 is just painted!...most ive seen have worn off.see bellow,mk1 top,mk2 bottom
only thing i like better is the cocking bolt and the loading probe.
dont get me wrong ive hade no problems with mine but the mk2 has a better design.the probes end hasnt a oring on it like the mk1 its seal is in the barrel.
Remove bottle, mag, and silencer.
Remove forearm by loosening front swivel
Remove scope rail, take note the 2 alan bolts differ.
Pop out hammer spring by levering or using pliers
Remove cocking bolt(check text bellow)
remove barrel by loosening 2 front lower grub screws and simply pulling forward
Remove trigger block by loosening the 2 alan bolts accessible under the hammer spring and inside main tube, keep in order as they differ
Remove hammer slide guide bolt
Remove all 12 alan bolts around the main tube
Push out gauge block from inside using anything that wont mark it or the internal walls, I use a thin piece of wood dowel then
Push out rearward the main valve block and hammer unit...
Then the tube is empty
Place bits in a safe place where they will be clean and not easily lost.
Refitting is reversal of removal
Leaver out or use pointy pliers
This hole is one of the 2 that hold on the pistol grip, rear gauge block alan bolts loosened ready for removal. Place wood dowel inside square hole and push out gauge block. Front pistol grip bolt is accessible once
the barrel is removed.
Hammer slide guide bolt,,not on all models, remove before pushing out internals…
both the gauge block and valve block will posh out fairly easly,if not use a wood dowel from the front and slowly push out to the rear.
When removed it will look like this.
TIP-when removing bottle screw out slowly one turn(this disconnects the air supply),cock, remove mag, fire, cock and fire another 5 times. this should expel all air from the guns internals. doing this saves bursting the bottles rubber o-ring.
---the guns hammer mechanisium is actually cocked and capable of firing when the bolt is pulled less than half the way back, the rest of the bolts travel rotates the mechanisium and indexes the magazine.
now I don’t know if logun did it on purpose but as the gun cocks(trigger over sear)the magazine cam follows a cut out path that turns it.
SEE PIC BELLOW
Now this all happens on a corner of the cut out and makes the rearward bolt rough and sticky.
This can be improved by the use of some wet and dry emery paper smoothing the rough spots.
after which metal polish like solvol autosol can be used to finish off to a high sheen thus smoothing the run of the cam.
Lubrication here I use either a molly or silicone grease.
SEE PICS
as well as lubricating it also quietings the metallic clunk of the mechanism.
The cocking bolt
Is removable by popping the plastic end cap off pushing a small alan key in behind the release leaver.
Remove the pivot alan bolt and withdraw them.
Remove the tension spring. the bolt can now be removed by loosening the alan bolt in the centre of the bolt.
NOTE
Some models have a locking grub screw assessable after pulling back the bolt…
Note small alan key, some have a grub screw here that needs loosening before loosening the centre alan bolt.
NOT ON ALL MODELS…
keep all bits together to aid in reassembly.
Due to the power increase you may have to do something to the bolt lock. due to physics, e.g. everything has an equal and opposite reaction, occasionally when firing the extra pressure causes the bolt to unlock and push back about 1mm.this can be rectified by fitting a stronger spring to the bolt lock. 15at the time I didn’t have one so I stretched the original spring slightly. it has never happened since and the extra spring pressure is hardly noticeable
Internals
So you’ve got it out, now study it.
Get your head round the route the air travels from entering the gun starting at the inlet valve, through the pistol block into the main tube above(o ring between).from here it feeds the gauge and fills a recess in the gauge block.
From here it runs past and through the hammer and the bolt holder via a thin stainless tube into the valve block (tiny o-rings between).now comes the exhaust valve.
Study the pic’s of the exhaust valve, notice the gap at the rear of the bolt hole.well come back to that later…
Now with the gun charged (bottle on) the pressure inside the recess where the air is stored pushes close the valve. when the gun is fired the hammer flies forward and opens the exhaust valve momentarily expelling the air through a hole in the center of the probe(o rings both sides) this then pushes out the pellet...
Back to the gap behind the bolt,
This gap is the distance the valve will open, and its adjustable...well on the mk1 and 2 it is…but not on the s version,you can quite easaly drill,tap and fit one…
The hammer doesn’t actually hit the exhaust valve, a grub screw does. This is adjustable from beneath the scope rail above the spring. It’s assessable when the gun is cocked via an alan key….see above mk1 and mk2
HAMMER, ADJUSTER AND LOCKING GRUB SCREW
Logun ballsed up here on mine as the hammer valve adjuster locking grub screw wasn’t tapped properly resulting in it loosening slowly and dropping 300 fps in less than 2 tins of pellets from new...this was easily fixed.
THE HAMMER IS RMOVABLE ONCE THE HAMER SLIDE GUIDE BOLT IS REMOVED.
VIEW INSIDE THE MAIN TUBE FROM REAR AFTER GAUGE BLOCK REMOVAL
The mk2 for some reason has a slightly longer valve adjuster grub screw…do NOT wind it in as far as it goes as it will snap the valve after a while as it has in a couple of evo models ive seen online.when adjusting fire and check the fps,wind it in half a turn at a time and recheck with a chrono.after a few turns the fps will simply not go any higher even though you can still turn the adjuster in.simply turn it back till the fps starts to drop and leave it there.
IF ITS WOUND IN TO FAR,THE HAMMER WILL BEND AND SNAP THE EXHAUST VALVE…IT STOPS RAISING THE FPS AT A CERTAIN POINT SO EXTRA TURNS WILL NOT UP IT ANY FURTHER….
The exhaust valve protrudes through the hammer guide approx 2mm.
I set my valve adjuster level with the hammer base....this will give around 12lbs, well for the moment anyway.....
You can wind the adjuster in a good few turn but this will only raise the power no more than a few fps, and, as it happens, is immaterial as there is another power restrictor hidden in the valve block anyway. Well there is on the mk1 s-16.but not in the mk2 or ‘s’.the mk1 transfer port is 3mm,the mk2 and ‘s’ is 1.5mm and must be drilled.
The early ones weren’t blocked so have no adjustment, these only have the hammer valve adjuster which will knock it up to 18ftlbs.
Logun must have added the transfer port block to later models to stop owners removing the scope rail and turning them up…
on inspection it was noted that after blocking various airways and blowing back from the pellet probe a restriction was felt..
Sly buggers have a grub screw just behind and bellows the exhaust valve.... have a look bellow
Remove the first locking grub screw.
Now the adjusting grub may be tight so make sure it’s a good quality alan key your using.
I noted that mine was 2 turns out from total blockage.8 turns out is fully derestricted.
Don’t forget to replace the locking grub screw.
SEE PIC MK1 ADJUSTABLE TRANSFER PORT…MK2 AND S ARNT ADJUSTABLE
This guide will also show you how to (after removing internal restrictions) adjust the power EXTERNALY from 20 down to 10ftlbs in less than 2 seconds
The first adjustment is accessible by removing the scope rail and linkage rod below it. Take note of the different lengths of bolt holding down the rail. the longer one goes to the rear.
Carefully lift off the rail leaving the linkage rod on the gun.
TIP-on removing the rod place a Alan key bit in the front hole in the magazine slide. This stops it from rotating and losing the hole. it can be spun back round but its awkward.
You can, if you wish, split the magazine and remove one pellet wheel, reassemble it and refit it back in the gun. now you can slid the Alan key up and down to see the magazine mechanism at work.
The rod ends are also 2 different lengths, make note that the short end goes to the rear.
If it’s fitted wrong then the gun bolt won’t lock in.
The bolt lock mechanism is way too noisy. as well as the lock there are 4 magnets embedded in the base of the internal parts that also pull and hold the bolt in place. Some emery and polishing on the angled face where the lock clicks over will also improve the smoothness of the lock. A strategically glued piece of rubber inner tube will totally loose the loud click as it locks.
Refitting the internals
Cleanliness is most important.
any bit of grit or dirt may cut the o-rings when there pushed in, as will any marks done by yourself removing the internals so be careful, me I blow out the main tube and degrease it.
Don’t bother with so called proper gun degreaser use either carb or brake cleaner readily available from any car shop, cheep as chips...
Spray it internally and let it drip out, it will evaporate in seconds then blow it out if possible.
Lube the o-rings with silicone grease, none of this expensive o-ring lube, that’s strait from an expert’s mouth who works in the air trade. Firstly slowly push in the main valve block till it matches up to its locating bolt holes.
you will notice that the valve block isn’t actually bolted in to the main tube rather simply held in place by the bolts.
Bolt it in and tighten, it doesn’t need to be FT just a nice nip will do. Fit in the full hammer mech which I oil with 3 I 1 or engine oil then fit and tighten the hammer guide, molly grease this bit.
Now the rear gauge block can be fiddly. Look down the main tube and through the square cutout in the hammer. The tube goes down there.
SEE PIC above
Offer up the valve block after silicone greasing the o-ring.
If it doesn’t go in at first turn slightly and try again ,it will go in eventually. DO NOT FORCE IT!!
You can fit in the full, complete valve and gauge block in one go but you must push it in from the valve block and not the gauge block or it may damage or even bend the link tube.
Fit all bolts and tighten.
Lube up the mag slide and cam with molly grease or silicon grease and lube up the barrel bolt block o-ring with silicone and fit in the barrel to the main tube, note the 2 lower small alan key recess so the match up with the holes.
SEE PIC
The lower barrel bolt block is held in by the abs forearm, the upper by the front scope rail.
MOLLY OR SILICON GREASE HERE
OIL HERE WITH 3 IN 1 OR ENGINE OIL
The S16-S
Tools
Alan keys,1.5 to 4mm
Drill bits 2 to 3mm
Pistol drill
Dremmel and bits
300 to 900 grade wet,n,dry paper
Solvol autosol polish
Silicon grease
Cotton buds
2 x 3mm grub screw to hold together valve unit
No transfer port adjuster
No hammer adjuster
No barrel o-ring seal on main barrel clamp
No hammer guide
No barrel retaining grub screws
Better shaped bottle valve
New designed gauge and cover
20mm longer forearm
1.5mm transfer port
Above WAY to Heavy exhaust spring
Valve set to open max 3mm by pin on hammer face.
Barrel not threaded for silencer so can't upgrade
New brass oring bush above bottle valve between block and tube
Bottle design is the best so far on the S as there is now no orings on the bottle valve, the seal is recessed in the inlet to the gun. here you’ll find the oring reassessed in a cutout. I think this is a much better design than the mk1 or 2 s16.
Mind you all 3 models are still restricted by the internal diameter of that bloody stainless link tube. unless this bore is made larger then i think max power is going to be restricted to 20ftlbs unlike the s16xs that is. the 30ftlbs plus xs is believed to have a larger bored link tube, opened up airways and a larger volume of air available around the ex valve allows for more power. the later can be increased by milling away some unused and unwanted metal from around the valve itself. More volume should mean more power...this mod and fitting a bigger link tube will not be done till i find a spare gun or someone who gives me permission to do it to there weapon.
The first strip of the shrouded models reveled a couple of design flaws, well i think there flaws anyway.
As the barrel shroud acts like a large silencer, debris inc dust and some lead bits have accumulated above the magazine. This is down to the front barrel clamp, the one held in by the forearm Alan bolt and the front scope rail bolt, not having a oring on it. The blast from the gun travels back towards the magazine and causes to smoothness problems.
Once stripped a good cleaning here is required, but always clean the main tube from back to front. You want it clean as at the rear as this is where the valve unit is refitted, never from the front. Cleaning from the back to front almost guarantees that and debris or grit will be nowhere near the valve unit orings when refitting. grit and orings do not make a good combination.
The hammer guide on the S model i think is naff.
As the link tube passes through a cutout in the hammer the hammer cannot turn, it also has to hit the ex valve with the pin on its front face. The mk1 had a brass bush to keep it inline, the mk2 only had a bolt instead of a brass bush. Now for some reason logun have cut a long keyway down the probe rear where the hammer runs up and down, and to the side of the hammer a grub screw protrudes slightly and forces the hammer to run up and down the cutout, crap i tell you. After removing the spring and feeling the smoothness, or not as the case may be. Lots of work is required here by polishing the keyhole cut as smooth as possible. While your on polish out the machine marks from the hammer. This face rubs against the hammer spring and any roughness here will affect power.
The internals differ slightly to the mk1 and 2.
There is NO adjuster grub screw on the hammer to adjust the exhaust valve opening gap. Instead a 3mm pin is machined into the forward facing surface of the hammer, this strikes the ex valve open. there is no way of adjusting this further unless the hammer is drilled, tapped and fitted with an adjuster.
Instead logun fit a massively heavier exhaust spring than the mk1 or 2.
A heavier spring here causes the valve to only open slightly and only for a short period of time. We want it open for longer and quicker thus pushing the pellet out quicker and harder. Simple answer here is to fit a thinner, lighter spring.. Some say that doing this will cause the ex
valve not to seal and it will leak...bull i say.ive even heard of a couple not having any ex springs fitted and these still hold air tightly as the bottles pressure hold the valve closed...remember regardless of model i always find it beneficial to cock the gun prior to fitting the bottle as this closes the ex valve saving wasting air when the bottle is attached.
the hammer spring on the S is way to light so for this model there a 3 things need done, a heavier hammer spring, a lighter ex spring which i have both and the transfer port will need drilled from 1.5mm to 3mm.
As std the mk1 port is 3mm but is adjustable, the mk2 is like the 16s it has no adjustment and is 1.5mm.
Access to the port is via the alenbolt opposit and below the valve hole.
the Alan bolt may be thread locked in with a plastic seal below. Its up to you if you wish to reseal with thread lock but I’ve never had any leak or work loose.
When drilling DO NOT force it through.
The drill will find its own way .be careful not to go to fast or it could brake trough the transfer port and damage the other side of the valve...blow out with compressor airgun. use the cotton bud to find any rough edges more likely just inside the ex valve hole. Spinning the cotton bud over a rough edge will cause the bud to grab and stop.
Excuse the dirty finger nails. that’s not nail polish, its spray paint.
the Dremmel and tiny grinding bit here works wonders but take care NOT to touch the face where the valve seals or your buggerd.
Look at bellow pic, zoom right in and you’ll see the rough edge, it only takes a couple of seconds with a Dremmel bit to smooth it..it doesn’t need to be polished just the rough off.
Also use the bud inside the hole where the probe goes to check for roughness, ive never had any here but it still needs checked. After your happy with it and there’s no rough bits blow out all over with a compressed air gun, wash it and blow dry again. clean and regrease the ex valve, refit it slowly.fit the spring, regrease front oring and SLOWLY push on the front end of the valve unit carefully and make sure it doesn’t go to far as the threaded holes can cut the oring, once its in position refit the to grub screws to hold in place when refitting.
Just remember to remove them once the unit has been refitted into the main tube.
Remember it is possible to refit the full unit inc the gauge block and link tube but it must be done carefully. NEVER push it in by the gauge block as damage to the link tube or its seals may occur. It is still possible to fit the link tube and gauge block in AFTER the valve unit is fitted but its awkward and must never be forced in.
Please follow the instructions in the first part of the manual to help with reassembly…..
A bit more info….
Mk2 and ‘s’ porting, drilling the transfer port.
Now then down to the power outputs...
The mk2 has NO transfer port adjuster like the mk1,logun simply drilled a smaller transfer port
The mk1 has a 3mm bore hole, the mk2 has a 1.5mm hole as does the s16s
So for max power you’ll have to get the drill out!.
FULLY strip it and remove all orings.
Access to measuring or drilling the port by removing the alan bolt in the housing opposite the valve hole, take note of the plastic seal
When you drill it go up in 0.5 increments...dont just barge through with a 3mm bit, and don’t go bigger or it will damage the threads.
Keep the bit oiled and after every drill blow out everywhere with a strong air line.
Obviously dont drill past the remaining hole,. tape the end of the drill bit to stop it going to far.
Even using a pistol drill will do, as there already a hole there the drill bit just follows it.
After its drilled you’ll have to finish off the hole inside and behind the exhaust valve.
me i carefully use a Dremmel and a diamond bit..it may look ok but use a mag glass or a good camera to view it close up.
Blow out,,,,wash it,,,,and blow it dry...cleanliness is a must here...
what logun has also done with the mk2 is fit a sorter/lighter hammer spring. i instantly noticed the diff the first time i cocked it.
even after drilling and adjusting you’ll only get around 660fps,stick a mk1 hammer spring in and it jumps to 770.
ive done some measuring and hunting around and have sorsed some replacement, uprated springs.
Forget the others offered as his claims of 28ftlbs plus is bull shit. There isn’t enough available air in the gun to get it above 20ft.lbs,i know, I’ve tried.
The slightly larger 1.5mm cs spring ups it another 50fps to around 790.
the extra force needed to pull back the bolt du to the slightly thicker spring isn’t really noticeable.
..There is a model available that does around 30ftlbs,the s16xs,but the internal design has went BIGGER its the only way to achieve it.
The main culprit for sub 20ftlbs is that stainless link tube between the gauge and valve block..the xs has a bidder diameter tube fitted, bigger airways and more volume at the exhaust port……..
IF ANY OF YOU WANT ME TO MOD THERE WITH A LARGER BORE TUBE ILL USE YOURS AS A TEST WEAPON…
Tuning....
Many mass produced weapons can be improved upon, the makers simply don’t have the manpower or have the time due to cost, to tune or finish the guns off to an acceptable level.
This is where home tuning comes in.
Polishing can be one of the best tuning methods as you can see by the before and after pics of the hammer. by removing the manufacturing lathe marks the spring will slide up and down with very little or no resistance. Which in turn makes the cocking action smoother and when the
trigger is pulled the hammer will fly forward faster thus adding to its power.
Polishing can also be beneficial anywhere where machine marks can be found, anywhere where there is ware showing on components, eg hammer slide, probe front and back, magazine cam and slide, inside hammer in fact anywhere where metal rub together....then there’s the trigger.
Before polishing
After polishing
the trigger and components eg hammer and sears can be improved upon dramatically but take note if its adjusted incorrectly then the gun may fire before the bolt is locked back into position. The tension on the spring can be lowered but care must be taken.
Now if you have worked out how the trigger works then you can see how to improve it.
Once the scope rail,barrel,spring and pistol grip housing is removed look at the cut out where the trigger sear sits in the main tube, here you’ll see the rough marks on the lower part of the hammer…
Firstly you will have ware marks AND machine marks on the lower edge of the hammer where the sear "scrapes" over it, flatten and polish these out. If its made smooth then the gun will cock much smoother. When the sear reaches the rear of the hammer it jumps over and holds the hammer ready for the trigger to be pulled. The rear edge of the hammer AND the end of the sear can also be polished here. This will make it possible, when done, to have a lot crisper and lighter trigger as the std pull is about 14stone,well not that much but far to much never the less...but take heed, if you do it wrong it wont hold back the hammer and its buggerd
Once you’ve done your polishing and are happy with the cocking and trigger pull you’ll have to check its safe.....point it at the floor and as rough as you can cock the bolt and lock it in place, do it roughly. Also when cocked and pointing down punch it. Yes you read right give it a good punch around the trigger and pistol grip area. You need to know if its handled roughly the gun wont fire. If it does then you must adjust it slightly heavier and test again....the last thing you want to be doing in the field is blasting a hole in your foot....or worse.
Lubrication....
Certain oils and greases will work best in different places. Grease on the hammer and rear probe shaft will drop the power by around 60fps,i know ive tested it. Here i simply use a light automotive engine oil is i find it to be the best.i also use oil around the hammer/cocking slide. Grease is used around high friction areas like the magazine mechanism and the link bar. Grease here will make is smooth.ive not tried any molybedenumdesulphate, spell checker couldn’t sort that out,lol,lets just call it molly, lubes or other wonder oils as yet but i cant see them performing any better. Some may say they use special lubes for high pressure compressed air for safely sake stating that some oils can cause ignition and explosion ,this is true in certain circumstances but NOT in compressed air weapons so you can keep your overpriced lubes.
Pellets....
Ive tryed a few types....most accurate are the accupels by far. There a nice smooth pellet so its a plus as when pushed by the probe out of the mag into the barrel then very little if any resistance is felt..a rough chambered pellet may be misshaped and cause fliers, and as there smooth
they fly almost silently through the air. Well handy for chimney pit starlings....
BSA interceptors also prove a belting pellet in both 12ftlbs and 20+ guns...there quite a long pellet so quite stable in flight, there hollow points and slightly heavier which are a good combo in a lower powerd fac gun.
They impressed me quite a bit with 12 out of 12 kills, and i mean instant death not a kick or flutter at all.
Ive never tried any logun pellets as ive heard nothing but bad things about them. If i up the power more, say up and above 40ftlbs then ill test some heavies,30gr, but until then ill stick to my super accurate, fast flying, flat trajectory well quiet accupels...anyway weren’t they originally made by Crossman not webley?....they have gone right down in my books of late, ive heard some horror stories of owners sending there beloved loguns to them for a o-ring change or service have been ripped off good and proper...i mean come on guys,£98 plus delivery for a ballsed up job. Some return worse than when they got them. Others are returned at sub 8ftlbs and others leaking with seals damaged or missing...I’ve been told that now they only accept payment by check only, no credit cards as punters have rightly so been contacting there card co for a refund for poor jobs...I’ve emailed them, rang them, they just wont answer questions ,the konb heads....could it be something to do with the new owners gamo?.....who knows anyway I’m now in the process of using a local o-ring specialist who have measures the seals from the mk1,2 and s models. They will be supplying me with std and uprated seals which i will be supplying to some shooters and/or fitting them myself. at around half the price they do it....oh and forget the lifetime warrantee, its not with the paper ive wiped my arse on.....SORT YA SELLS OUT WEBLEY....rant over.
A few of the s16s owner have contacted me re air loss when fitting bottle.
Always cock the gun before fitting the bottle as doing so closes the exhaust valve and saves air from escaping. Before the gun is tuned the exhaust valve spring is actually stronger than the hammer spring, this isn’t the case with the early mk1 and 2 models. As the 16s has no power adjusters anywhere on the gun i can only assume logun messed around with spring tensions to get it near the limit. The hammer adjuster being replaced by a machine pin of around 3mm.now after the transfer port has been opened up to 3mm the std spring setup becomes useless and a lighter exhaust and heavier hammer spring must be used
Tip..
anytime my gun is bottle less i unlock the bolt and pull it back slightly. This keeps the exhaust valve closed.
When firing its only opened for a 100th of a second, i don’t like the idea of both valve and mating surface being apart/open for days.
Gauge....
Most of us will be unlucky as the vast majority of them lie.
Theres nothing worse than filling your bottle, bleed check and top up to 3000psi only to insert it into the gun for the gauge to say its at 3/4 or just above half. You know its full but it would be nice if the gauge told
the truth.....well, most can be easily adjusted. You see the printed bit on most is on the underside of the gauge see through cover, and it turns.
There are 2 tiny indents in the gauge face opposite each other. use a pair if circlip or pointy pliers and turn it to the true reading. All but one have turned..mine being the one that didn’t...would u credit it.
Thanks to a local it lad for that bit of info. i kicked myself for not seeing that one.
O-RING REPLACEMENT.
From what I can recall there are 17 o-rings in total, 2 can’t be changed. These are to 2 at either end of the air link tube which are sealed inside the gauge and valve block. I’ve seen full sets on eBay selling for £27. This is way too much as they are pennies each; you’ve just got to know where to get them from.
The main one that needs changed as you know is the air bottle seal,(see tips). Second one is the pellet probe o-ring. This can be changed insitue without any dismantling by removing the magazine and cocking the gun. DON’T cut it off; I use a thick pointed cable tie. Cable ties come in very handy as you read in another section.
Most o-rings will just lift or roll of their components.
These I lube up with silicon grease regularly as it rubs over the magazine o-ring when it pushes the pellet into the barrel then seals it up, this can be a high wear point.
The other 2 o-rings on the probe seal the transfer port which is cut out on the other side of the probe, these often wear and snap. I’ve even seen some logons’ with one missing, no wonder it was only doing 5ftlbs, these can’t really be changed unless you strip the gun.
The o-ring on the barrel clamp serves little purpose and never really needs changed. The main pistol grip to main tube o-ring has never failed on me yet even with all the strip downs I’ve done. When dismantling the gun, providing your careful removing internals, even the gauge block and valve block main o-rings will rarely need changed, but if your rough and scratch the inner walls when refitting internals they will cut the o-rigs, any rough deep scores done by you must be removed by flattening them with 1200 grade emery paper, and if you gouge it badly in the wrong place it will be useless.
Don’t bother with expensive o-ring oil or grease, you read that certain oil will explode under high pressure, this is true but not with compressed diving air. I’ve been told to use silicon grease from a mate who works in the trade, so I do, easy to get and cheap as chips. A nice thin coating is needed, I silicon my fingers and rub the o-ring all over and stick it where it needs to be, before assembly give it another once around. You don’t need a lot, just enough so you can see its been lubricated but you can’t see the white of the grease, lol if you know what I mean.
I’ve sorsed a local supplier of orings.im selling 2 types. The std factory fitted orings and the more expensive uprated types.
so which ones do you chose?,thats up to you. The std ones do the job, there cheep and will last for quite a while, a good couple of years if lubed up regularly.
some seals are static, ie the main valve blocks, as they dont move. but some do. Mainly the probe orings which as well as move there open to dirt, oils and the ozone.
uprated seals come into there own here lasting a lot longer than std seals.
TRIGGER SEAR
Due to the design of the guns trigger the weight to the pull is quite heavy, this cant really or safely be lowered but it can be made smoother by polishing the mating surfaces.#
Now you could totally shaft it here resulting in misfires or even failing to cock so if you’re not sure then leave it as is.
New furniture is also in the pipeline.
I’m copying the original pistol grip and forearm and also a adjustable target pistol grip and weaver railed target forearm
Field test
...2 words FUCKIN Awesome.
Previously the sights were set at 15 and 30 yards with a 75yard target set at the 4th line down on the reticule.
With the extra 200fps there now set at 15 and 50 yards with 80 yard target set at the 2 line.
I got a 2inch grouping at 100yards not really trying.
The pellets (accupell) still penetrated the power poll more than 10 mil, well impressed....so out for some woodies. These I almost always drop with a head shot but this time I went for body shots just to see the results as normally these shots don’t drop them....until now.
The first of 3 kills was at 25 yards, a side shot, it just blew it off the branch, lol. Instant death.
The second was a 20 yard shot from bellow, THWOCK! Another clean shot, this one I took in the head...
A rabbit at over 70 yards also dropped clean with a head shot, strait through.
As it’s now classed as a FAC great care should be taken especially where hi shots are concerned. The range has increased far enough that you should think twice about shots that could cause danger to others..no more chimney pot starlings.
Killing range has doubled, if not more....if you can hit it in the right place then it will drop.
Accsesories....
there are some so called logun lasers and bipods for sale on ebay.
For some reason in the add they say that these are the only ones that fit the logun...cods whollop..
I bought and fitted a cheepie Chinese bipod for £25 delivered. its belting, spring loaded, adjustable, excellent quality. I’ve even taken it to my local gun shop to check it side by side with the costly Harris pods.
There almost identical. They clamp on to the front sling swivel, some won't fit them here as they fear it will pull out the swivel. it wont.
They are invaluable for range work or anywhere you need a rock steady, long rang shot. they can add a little extra weight to the gun when on long shots but as they takes seconds to remove and stick in your pocket
Lasers….
The ebay £6 delivered lasers are ok buy your stuck to the distance you can set them. As the internals are brass if there adjusted to much the grub screws brake through the walls and all your left with is a toy to piss off the cats.
Power wise there mint, around 100yards but that is way to far for a no scope laser shot as my son calls it. There perfect for close range rat work say no longer than 10 yards.
When fitting a cheep laser i get the laser light dead center and simply turn it.it might be seat at 5 yards, or even 15 so i just leave it there
I found a brand new Á£80 boxed beamshot laser, the 5mw 1000yard version which adjusts ald locks beautifully from ebay for all of Á£8 delivered, well pleased cos all the ebayer put in the title was beamshot..cheers mate.
The logun lamps provide quite a decent, well focused beam of upto 100yards.ther clamp on easy and are fully adjustable. The switch on mine is a little nosey and the cable seems to be lined with spring material which make it hard to route it best as it keeps springing back.
For a scope i have 3,a original red dot sight from the 80s for close quick target acquisition, say for running rats. a set of 3-9x40 hawkie scopes for close to midrange dusk dawn shooting and some tasco copys 6-24x50 ir with an excellent reticule for mid to long range hunting and target shooting. They cost me all of £30 delivered new. For the money there brill....but im saving for some better ones.
The beast is a little heavy i almost always shoot with a load bearing assalt vest on.i attach my logun to this "stargate" style with a bungie clip front and rear.
Ive got fitted to mine 2 sling swivels on either side of the forearm where the laser holding grub screws are situated.
When attached i can simply let it go and it just stays in position ready for a grab and shoot.
The assault vest come in way handy for other suff also.
Mines the south African dpm type and amongst other stuff it holds a basha with bungees and poles,gortex jacket and pants,12ft camo net hide,water bladder,pmr radio gear etc and theres many more pockets to lob stuff in,and as its loadbearing it helps with me bad back, plus i think it looks cool,sad i know. Its remarkably compact if packed correctly i mean the basha,poles,water bladder and net all pack into the aprox size of a roll of embossed wallpaper which is in the centre of my back and acts as protection in a fall.
as for clothing ive a nice selection of army clothing from around the world.
i always use big jackets with plenty of space between the layers use a thermal linner with motor bike protection fitted inside. Thats elbow and shoulder protection and a large back protector plate. There made of compressed sponge and rubber, light and bloody handy when falling down on rocks or railway embankments.
Pants wise i also motocross armored jeans under my dpm. with both on i can crawl anywhere without the worry of damaging myself.
mind you the German flecktarn stuff is excellent, much better quality than the British stuff but they just dont seam to big enough for me.im
6ft3 but there jackets are long enough but not quite wide enough, so ive bought more and will have them enlarged….Ill buy some realtree stuff at sometime but personally i think there way overpriced….right ive been waffling for a while, back to business.
EXTERNAL POWER adjuster
This is so simple I bet you’ll think “well I could have thought of that”, but you didn’t, I did……..so read on.
With all power adjustments inside the gun not quickly or easy accessible I decided to make it possible to adjust the power from max down to half from outside the gun.
The idea is to internally adjust the gun up to its maximum that is the transfer port adjuster wound out 8 turns and the hammer valve adjuster being wound out 1 and a half turns from being level with the hammer base which is why before assembly I set mine level so I know 1 and a half turns from here will give 18ftlbs.
Forget about turning it in further it will make no difference to the power output, put this down to the internal design of weapon. There just isn’t enough air available in the internal chambers to get it above 20ftlbs.dont get me wrong there’s plenty in the bottle but it just can’t get to the pellet at a decent volume or force to be of any use.
If I’m going to get to 1000fps a major redesign internally is needed and possibly a new valve block…but I’m waffling…
Right external adjustment is achieved by stopping the hammer traveling is full stroke. Remove the bolt and lock mechanism, study the rear where the lock pivot is seen. here you’re going to file off 1 to 2 mill of metal from the rear facing flat on the bolt handle.
Lh std,rh modded
hold the bolt back in place, view the gap in the mechanism as this is where the cable tie spacer will go.
But remember the gap won’t be properly visible until the gun is reassembled and the air bottle is fitted. this is because without the bottle fitted the hammer spring is stronger than the valve spring and it holds open the valve, with the bottle fitted the air pressure in the internals force the valve close which is where you see the gap.
To show this before you disassemble the gun simply remove the bolt and see for yourself, and when you remove the bottle look again and the gap is gone.
to test I used a cut down cable tie, with this pushed into the gap and over the blot I placed an o-ring to hold it there the gun was fired resulting a legal 10ft lbs, remove said tie re-fire and a 20ft lbs was recorded, just the job.
A thicker cable tie would result in lowering the power; a thinner one will up it.
You could even make yourself a few at different widths. a 6ft lbs one would be perfect for the kids plinking not to mention 400ish shots per charge. So now I have a legal limit garden gun, keeping the restrictor in keeps the power down, noise limit low, more shots per charge and piece of mind to know that if pc copper pulls you and threatens to confiscate the gun for its power to be checked you can check it at the roadside with the chrono you ALWAYS carry and you knows it’s under the limit.
And you’ve also got a high powered, long range 800fps killing machine by simply removing a bit of plastic. I may incorporate this in to a sort of clip on cover for the bolt.
So there you have it, keep the power adjuster in place when shooting in confined places, walking to your shoot or anywhere you’d expect to encounter an officer of the law…but when it’s safe to do so remove it and you’re up to max power.
I’ve dropped wabits at 100yards plus, even at 80 yards the accupels I use go strait though three quarter inch fence plank.
But take heed, the 12ftlbs limit wasn’t put in place for nothing you know.
Extra power means extra responsibility on the part of the shooter.
I was setting my sights in my normal place, shooting leaves on a tree that overlooks a swamp behind which at about 80 yards is a local wood.
Now normally the pellets drop safely into the swamp... Not anymore.
They were heard crashing in to the woods hitting tree trunks with loud thuds. so be careful.
Sighting distances will also change. Previously mine were set at 15 and 35 yards. Now there set at 15 and 55 yards due to the flatter trajectory of the pellet. This technically means it will be easier to hit your target at further ranges if you’re capable of doing it that is.
Using accupell with no wind on a bipod with sand socks I got groups of 25mm at 80 yards without really trying...
At full power, the pellets are also less affected by side winds, bad news for the quarry but good for us shooters.
Legally I don’t know how we stand with this mod fitted.
Almost all guns are capable of breaching the 12ftlbs limit with some adjustment. If you’re caught with the gun with the adjuster fitted then technically its legal. It’s immaterial if a brainy copper knows the mod is there and what it does as when you’re stopped its in and legal, if u catch my drift.
I’ve noted only one drawback.
With the adjuster in it holds the pellet probe further forward than usual. This means when removing the mag you have to pull the cocking bolt back very slightly to remove the mag.
With the adjuster out the mag drops out as normal. a very small price to pay I think.
Pic shows 1 mm of metal removed just above lock pivot grub screw.silly me for got to take a pic before I filled off the metal.
Blue cables tie power adjuster in place, held in by an o-ring.
I’ve shot mine over 1000 with it in place with no problems.
With a black cable tie fitted it will be almost invisible to anyone unless they know what they’re looking for.
I advise using the locking part of the cable tie at first till you get used to removing it….there u are, told you it was a simple but effective modification…
And a closer shot.
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