B2-1 Air Rifle

[marius]

Perdariau ir as 5,5 kalibre kinieti B2.
Greitis kolkas svyruoja nuo 160 iki 190.
Gaila kad gamo manzetas netinka, nors yra vilties, kad panaudojus teisinga tepala greitis stabilizuosis. Gal kas dar turit patarimu?
Is anksto dekingas.
Si sautuva ruosiu kaip dovana dedei, todel noriu padaryti tikrai stabilu.

P.S. idomu kiek ir kaip laikys tamstos plastmasinis manzetas, as odos turiu storos atsarga, tai manau ja ir pritaikyti.

[eimazz]

kiek laikys ziuresim
ta pati padariau senam kitaiskam perlauziamam pistoliui su kuriuo galiu kasdien pasaudyt.. dabar jau su tokia tarpine spejau gal 50 kart issaut - nesimato jokiu pasikeitimu.. toliau ziuresim, siaip nematau del ko turetu suplyst.. na betkokiu atveju darbo uzima gal 5 minutes...

[marius]

Manau kad liksiu prie odos. Reikes tik isbandyti dvitakcio motoro tepala kaip dyzeli (taip siulo Charly day Tuna)
turiu motoroleri, tai ir tepalo turiu
parasysiu rezultatus po savaites, kai isbandysiu, jei isgausiu stabiluma iki 10 lauke- busiu patenkintas.

[Willy]

kaip eimizz tau neiskrenta ta plastmase, jaj tu jos neklijavai?

[eimazz]

taip pat kaip ir tau neiskrenta odine tarpine, ji irgi neyklijuota o tik yspausta

[Willy]

nu nzn. ten ji prilipus kaip reikalas. nlb suprantu kurioj tu vietoj ja prispaudei? gi ten nera kur

[Tamosius]

as tai gumini ziedeli ikisau i savo kinieti 5.5 nes su oda man kotai nesiseke uzsandarint,nes griovelis gana gilus pas maniski buvo ir beto nelygus,taip kad su oda man nesigavo.

[marius]

Odinius manzetus reik gaminti sitaip:

A basic guide.

Read this in it’s entirety before proceeding.

To do this, you will need a length of Teflon Rod. It is 1” in diameter and PTFE. Some hardware stores carry it I’ve been told and in some areas it can be found locally at plastic fabrication shops. If not, it can be ordered from McMaster Carr. Here is the info and URL.

or you can type in the number 8546K16 on Google search

Part number     8546K16

MCMASTER - CARR  900526000   8546K16        1 IN WHITE PTFE ROD           $1.76  

First, disassemble the gun and remove the piston. This requires in most cases, using a spring compressor and care must be taken as it can be dangerous and cause bodily injury. (see tune up guides) also (spring compressors)


Before proceeding, inspect the compression chamber to be sure that the walls of the chamber wall are smooth. If they are not smooth, they should be honed until they are. Remember, leather seals are a lot more forgiving when it comes to irregularities than synthetic seals, which is one of the reasons they are used in the less expensive guns.

In the event that the walls are damaged to the point that they cannot be reasonably corrected, you may want to just put it back together using the leather seal. Minor scratches may not be a problem though, and you may or may not want to proceed. That’s your call, and it may be fun just to give it a whirl. Whether or not you decide to continue, you should still take the time to clean up and smooth the walls anyhow as it may help the performance some.

With the seal still attached to the piston, measure the depth and diameter of the seal. Also, measure the inside diameter of the bore of the compression chamber. These references will be used in the making of the seal.

Remove the screw located in the center of the leather seal and remove the seal. Save all of these parts in the event you want to reinstall the leather seal. Take notice how the seal and expansion washer (if used) is assembled.

Now take a file and smooth out or file down any rough edges at the front of the piston and taper or round off a real slight even bevel around the edge of the face of the piston. Be sure there are no sharp edges. Now smooth it down with some sandpaper and clean.

And now for the seal;

Cut a piece off of the end of the Teflon rod just a little thicker, about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch thicker than the leather seal. It’s not critical, however, better thicker than thinner. When cutting it off, keep the cut as even, as smooth, and square as possible. Take your time, there is no rush.

Now we’re going to drill a hole in the center of the seal that will need to be counter sunk. The hole needs to be the same size as the screw that held in the leather seal. It is important that this hole be drilled as nearly centered as possible in the seal. Be sure to countersink it deep enough as the Teflon is kind of soft and spongy. The object here is to sink it deep enough into the Teflon to keep the screw from slamming into the bottom of the chamber when fired driving the seal retaining screw up into the piston, either damaging the bottom of the chamber, breaking the screw or causing the threads to strip.

 For the next step it would be nice to have a drill press but a drill mounted securely in a vise or other holding device will work.

Because the seal material is a larger diameter than the inside diameter of the cylinder, we have to make it smaller by removing some of the material. This can be done one of two ways.

If the piston has a shaft in it:

Mount the new seal on the piston using the screw from the leather seal. If that screw is to short, take it to the hardware store and get a replacement screw that’s a little longer. Most hardware stores carry metric as well as SAE screws. If possible get a hardened screw.

Place the end of the shaft into the drill press or secure drill and use a file to turn it down, being careful not to remove too much material. While removing the material, hold the file at a slight angle, or canted so that the seal has a slight taper to it, tapering from the rear of the seal to wider at the front, making the front of the seal slightly larger than the rear. This will reduce the friction as there will not be contact with the whole width of the seal. Check it as you go for fit. You want a good, firm, fit, but still able to move in and out without excessive drag. You should be able to move it by hand in and out with exerting source. Better too tight than to loose, as it will break in given time and seating.

In the case that there is no center shaft, take a screw, place it through a washer that is a little smaller than the seal, insert the screw through the seal and place another washer and nut on the back and tighten the nut. (In other word’s, sandwich the seal between two washers an a suitable screw.) Place it in the drill chuck and do as above. You may have to double nut the screw to keep it from loosening as the drill turns.

When you are ready for assembly, clean the threaded hole in the piston and the screw with lacquer thinner or fingernail polish remover and a q-tip. Use the BLUE LocTite on the screw per the instructions.

Just another fun project

Charlie

[Tamosius]

nu saunuolis,parasei,o lietuviskai galetum?

[Aragon]

http://www.oksalis.lt/prekes.php?nr=2&id=28&sort=&stulpelis=&asc=&order=&paieska=&kategorija=71&sablonas=8&l=2&einamas_puslapis=1
sitas daiktas geresnis uz b2-1 ? ir apsimoka pirkt su ta papildoma optika ar geriau paciam detis ja ir kuris is kitaicu ten skaitosi geriausiasi ir kur galima pvz b4 nusipirkt ?

[Lii]

Aragon rašė:
http://www.oksalis.lt/prekes.php?nr=2&id=28&sort=&stulpelis=&asc=&order=&paieska=&kategorija=71&sablonas=8&l=2&einamas_puslapis=1
sitas daiktas geresnis uz b2-1 ? ir apsimoka pirkt su ta papildoma optika ar geriau paciam detis ja ir kuris is kitaicu ten skaitosi geriausiasi ir kur galima pvz b4 nusipirkt ?

Na sitas uz B2 geraiu tuom, kad vamzdis stacionarus.. tik cia tas vadinamas kastalomas arba pirstu kapokle. Siaip idomumo delei paprasyk parduotuvej kad ji 'perlauztu'... aprasyme juk parasyta- perlauziamas ;D;)

[Aragon]

Na pagaliau ir as jau isigyjau b2-2 uzsidejau piestuka ir beveik tiesiai is parduotuves nuvaziavau prie mariu ismegint   ir lb lb smarkiai nusivyliau nusipirkau dar dezute umarex 850 airmagnum kulkeliu is 5 metru soviau i alaus buteli nesuduzo ;/ tada soviau dar 3 kart seip ne taip suduzo galingumu sautuvas nepasizymi bet grizus namo pasidariau taikini ant greituju ir galima sakyt nubegau uz namo pasaudyt ismokau optika reguliuoti kazkiek  susitvarkiau kad pataikyciau i apskritima karta net i centra pataikiau ispudziai kaip mazam vaikui gavus zaisla tiesa sakant nuotaika lb pasitaise kai is 15-18 m kazkur pataikydavau i taikini tikiuosi su forumieciu pagalba pavyks ji siek tiek aptvarkyti ir iki pavasario turesiu sautuveli kad ir nelabai gera bet vis sioky toky

[eimazz]

kad nelabai ka ten tvarkyt yra:)
man is pradziu dumelis ejo, vamzdis visa tepalais dengtas nuo to, daugiau pasaudzius dumas baigesi, matyt lisnas tepalas issitaske, vamzdy isvalyt nuo tepalo manau reiktu iskart
gal po 1500 suviu suplyso vamzdzio sandarinimo tarpine, jau rasiau kuom pakeiciau...
jei netingi gali pastiprint padidines stumoklio eiga kaip rasyta temoje "sulietuvinimas"..
as siulyciau pradziai atsizaist su nauju "zaislu", pasimokyt ,pasitreniruot
manau geriau silpniau, bet taikliai, nei stipriai pro saly:)

[Aragon]

pasirodo man kulkoks kainavo 39 litus ;/ uz 500 vienetu nu ir apsisoviau

[zalias7]

Aragon rašė:
pasirodo man kulkoks kainavo 39 litus ;/ uz 500 vienetu nu ir apsisoviau

Hm.. gal ir ne apsisovei, jei taikliai leks, bet kaina tikrai nemenka, jsb pigiau kainuoja .